{"id":7667,"date":"2018-12-12T07:05:52","date_gmt":"2018-12-12T07:05:52","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/martinblack.com\/?p=7667"},"modified":"2018-12-12T07:06:30","modified_gmt":"2018-12-12T07:06:30","slug":"ukraine-2018-day-2-to-the-dnieper","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/2018\/12\/ukraine-2018-day-2-to-the-dnieper\/","title":{"rendered":"Ukraine 2018<br> To the Dnieper!"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><span class=\"drop1\">A<\/span>s Londoner I&#8217;ve a fierce attachment to the Thames; crossing Blackfriars bridge on the top of a bus and looking west and then east always sends a shiver of love through my body. The Thames, to me, is the beating heart of London and I tend to assume that inhabitants of other cities feel the same way.<\/p>\n<p>And what of\u00a0 Kyiv&#8217;s relationship to the Dnieper? It&#8217;s hard to know, the city doesn&#8217;t appear to go out of its way to encourage tourists. Much of the river (on the right bank) is lined by busy, noisy roads, I was hoping for an embankment walk,\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/South_Bank\">Southbank<\/a> or similar and had heard that Obolonska Quay in the Obolon neighbourhood might suffice.<\/p>\n<h2>But first, breakfast<\/h2>\n<p>On this beautiful sunny and warm morning I head off in the direction of Golden Gate confident I&#8217;ll find a good place to eat.\u00a0 And indeed on <a href=\"https:\/\/www.kyivpost.com\/then-and-now\/yaroslaviv-val-street-stands-symbol-ancient-times.html\">Yaroslaviv Val<\/a> I come across\u00a0Caf\u00e9 Yaroslava where I enjoy meat pancakes and a cappuccino.<\/p>\n<div class=\"wc-gallery\"><div id='gallery-1' data-gutter-width='5' data-columns='3' class='gallery wc-gallery-captions-onhover gallery-link-file gallery-masonry galleryid-7667 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-large wc-gallery-bottomspace-default wc-gallery-clear'><div class='gallery-item gallery-item-position-1 gallery-item-attachment-7677'>\n\t\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/20180915_105409.jpg' title='20180915_105409' target='_self'><img width=\"692\" height=\"922\" src=\"https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/20180915_105409.jpg\" class=\"attachment-large size-large\" alt=\"\" loading=\"lazy\" srcset=\"https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/20180915_105409.jpg 692w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/20180915_105409-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/20180915_105409-300x400.jpg 300w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/20180915_105409-250x333.jpg 250w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/20180915_105409-550x733.jpg 550w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/20180915_105409-135x180.jpg 135w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/20180915_105409-375x500.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 692px) 100vw, 692px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<div class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption'>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<p>\n\t\t\t\t\t\tCoffee at Cafe Yaroslava\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/p>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div><\/div><div class='gallery-item gallery-item-position-2 gallery-item-attachment-7675'>\n\t\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/20180915_110026.jpg' title='20180915_110026' target='_self'><img width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" src=\"https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/20180915_110026-1024x768.jpg\" class=\"attachment-large size-large\" alt=\"\" loading=\"lazy\" srcset=\"https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/20180915_110026-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/20180915_110026-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/20180915_110026-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/20180915_110026-250x187.jpg 250w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/20180915_110026-550x412.jpg 550w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/20180915_110026-800x600.jpg 800w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/20180915_110026-240x180.jpg 240w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/20180915_110026-400x300.jpg 400w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/20180915_110026-667x500.jpg 667w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/20180915_110026.jpg 1230w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<div class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption'>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<p>\n\t\t\t\t\t\tMeat pancakes (\u041d\u0430\u043b\u0438\u0441\u043d\u0438\u043a\u0438)\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/p>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div><\/div><div class='gallery-item gallery-item-position-3 gallery-item-attachment-7676'>\n\t\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/20180915_105756.jpg' title='20180915_105756' target='_self'><img width=\"692\" height=\"922\" src=\"https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/20180915_105756.jpg\" class=\"attachment-large size-large\" alt=\"\" loading=\"lazy\" srcset=\"https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/20180915_105756.jpg 692w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/20180915_105756-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/20180915_105756-300x400.jpg 300w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/20180915_105756-250x333.jpg 250w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/20180915_105756-550x733.jpg 550w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/20180915_105756-135x180.jpg 135w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/20180915_105756-375x500.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 692px) 100vw, 692px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<div class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption'>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<p>\n\t\t\t\t\t\tMeat pancakes (\u041d\u0430\u043b\u0438\u0441\u043d\u0438\u043a\u0438)\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/p>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div><\/div><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<p>The Yaroslava is one of the oldest caf\u00e9s in Kyiv, opening in 1947 and famous for its savoury pancakes and rich pastries. The Ukrainian novelist\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Andrey_Kurkov\">Andrey Kurkov<\/a> mentions the caf\u00e9 in his novel &#8216;The Milkman in the Night&#8217;:<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-7681\" src=\"http:\/\/martinblack.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/cafe.png\" alt=\"Excerpt from the Milkman in the Night By Andrey Kurkov\" width=\"603\" height=\"198\" srcset=\"https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/cafe.png 603w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/cafe-300x99.png 300w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/cafe-250x82.png 250w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/cafe-550x181.png 550w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/cafe-548x180.png 548w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 603px) 100vw, 603px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Unlike Veronika, I sat outside on the veranda.<\/p>\n<h2>Adrift in Obolon<\/h2>\n<p>A visit to Obolonska Quay is, it turns out, a major undertaking. The metro from Maidan is straight forward enough but once at Obolon there is no indication that one is in walking distance of a major European river. No signposts or handy maps, nothing, nothing at all.<\/p>\n<p>Thus I&#8217;m forced to fall back on Google maps for a mile or so, directed down busy, hot roads and then through housing estates before finally stepping out onto the Quay and coming face-to-face with the river.<\/p>\n<p>And my first impression?\u00a0 &#8216;Gosh, this river is green!&#8217;.\u00a0 A deep green that reminds me of pea soup.\u00a0A sign warning against swimming is ignored by several brave souls.<\/p>\n<p>And on the riverbank, the beach in fact, families with blankets laden with food, a young couple sharing a cigarette, old people taking in the sun, a few drunks dancing to tinny sounds coming from an old radio.\u00a0 Anglers cast out, a young woman reads her book, dogs sniff about and kids pass by on bikes.<\/p>\n<div class=\"wc-gallery\"><div id='gallery-2' data-gutter-width='5' data-columns='3' class='gallery wc-gallery-captions-onhover gallery-link-file gallery-masonry galleryid-7667 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-large wc-gallery-bottomspace-default wc-gallery-clear'><div class='gallery-item gallery-item-position-1 gallery-item-attachment-7688'>\n\t\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/beach1.jpg' title='beach1' target='_self'><img width=\"800\" height=\"600\" src=\"https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/beach1.jpg\" class=\"attachment-large size-large\" alt=\"\" loading=\"lazy\" srcset=\"https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/beach1.jpg 800w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/beach1-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/beach1-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/beach1-250x188.jpg 250w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/beach1-550x413.jpg 550w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/beach1-240x180.jpg 240w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/beach1-400x300.jpg 400w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/beach1-667x500.jpg 667w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div><\/div><div class='gallery-item gallery-item-position-2 gallery-item-attachment-7689'>\n\t\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/beach2.jpg' title='beach2' target='_self'><img width=\"800\" height=\"600\" src=\"https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/beach2.jpg\" class=\"attachment-large size-large\" alt=\"\" loading=\"lazy\" srcset=\"https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/beach2.jpg 800w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/beach2-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/beach2-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/beach2-250x188.jpg 250w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/beach2-550x413.jpg 550w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/beach2-240x180.jpg 240w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/beach2-400x300.jpg 400w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/beach2-667x500.jpg 667w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div><\/div><div class='gallery-item gallery-item-position-3 gallery-item-attachment-7695'>\n\t\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/fishing-horz.jpg' title='fishing-horz' target='_self'><img width=\"800\" height=\"600\" src=\"https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/fishing-horz.jpg\" class=\"attachment-large size-large\" alt=\"\" loading=\"lazy\" srcset=\"https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/fishing-horz.jpg 800w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/fishing-horz-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/fishing-horz-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/fishing-horz-250x188.jpg 250w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/fishing-horz-550x413.jpg 550w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/fishing-horz-240x180.jpg 240w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/fishing-horz-400x300.jpg 400w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/fishing-horz-667x500.jpg 667w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div><\/div><div class='gallery-item gallery-item-position-4 gallery-item-attachment-7699'>\n\t\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/river.jpg' title='river' target='_self'><img width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" src=\"https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/river-1024x768.jpg\" class=\"attachment-large size-large\" alt=\"\" loading=\"lazy\" srcset=\"https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/river-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/river-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/river-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/river-1800x1350.jpg 1800w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/river-250x188.jpg 250w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/river-550x413.jpg 550w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/river-800x600.jpg 800w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/river-240x180.jpg 240w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/river-400x300.jpg 400w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/river-667x500.jpg 667w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div><\/div><div class='gallery-item gallery-item-position-5 gallery-item-attachment-7693'>\n\t\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/fishing2.jpg' title='fishing2' target='_self'><img width=\"600\" height=\"800\" src=\"https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/fishing2.jpg\" class=\"attachment-large size-large\" alt=\"\" loading=\"lazy\" srcset=\"https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/fishing2.jpg 600w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/fishing2-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/fishing2-300x400.jpg 300w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/fishing2-250x333.jpg 250w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/fishing2-550x733.jpg 550w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/fishing2-135x180.jpg 135w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/fishing2-375x500.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div><\/div><div class='gallery-item gallery-item-position-6 gallery-item-attachment-7697'>\n\t\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/reading.jpg' title='reading' target='_self'><img width=\"800\" height=\"600\" src=\"https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/reading.jpg\" class=\"attachment-large size-large\" alt=\"\" loading=\"lazy\" srcset=\"https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/reading.jpg 800w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/reading-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/reading-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/reading-250x188.jpg 250w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/reading-550x413.jpg 550w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/reading-240x180.jpg 240w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/reading-400x300.jpg 400w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/reading-667x500.jpg 667w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div><\/div><div class='gallery-item gallery-item-position-7 gallery-item-attachment-7692'>\n\t\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/fishing1.jpg' title='fishing1' target='_self'><img width=\"600\" height=\"800\" src=\"https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/fishing1.jpg\" class=\"attachment-large size-large\" alt=\"\" loading=\"lazy\" srcset=\"https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/fishing1.jpg 600w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/fishing1-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/fishing1-300x400.jpg 300w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/fishing1-250x333.jpg 250w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/fishing1-550x733.jpg 550w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/fishing1-135x180.jpg 135w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/fishing1-375x500.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div><\/div><div class='gallery-item gallery-item-position-8 gallery-item-attachment-7700'>\n\t\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/view-to-oblong.jpg' title='view-to-oblong' target='_self'><img width=\"800\" height=\"600\" src=\"https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/view-to-oblong.jpg\" class=\"attachment-large size-large\" alt=\"\" loading=\"lazy\" srcset=\"https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/view-to-oblong.jpg 800w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/view-to-oblong-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/view-to-oblong-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/view-to-oblong-250x188.jpg 250w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/view-to-oblong-550x413.jpg 550w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/view-to-oblong-240x180.jpg 240w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/view-to-oblong-400x300.jpg 400w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/view-to-oblong-667x500.jpg 667w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div><\/div><div class='gallery-item gallery-item-position-9 gallery-item-attachment-7694'>\n\t\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/fishing-fishing.jpg' title='fishing-fishing' target='_self'><img width=\"800\" height=\"600\" src=\"https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/fishing-fishing.jpg\" class=\"attachment-large size-large\" alt=\"\" loading=\"lazy\" srcset=\"https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/fishing-fishing.jpg 800w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/fishing-fishing-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/fishing-fishing-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/fishing-fishing-250x188.jpg 250w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/fishing-fishing-550x413.jpg 550w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/fishing-fishing-240x180.jpg 240w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/fishing-fishing-400x300.jpg 400w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/fishing-fishing-667x500.jpg 667w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div><\/div><div class='gallery-item gallery-item-position-10 gallery-item-attachment-7696'>\n\t\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/quay.jpg' title='quay' target='_self'><img width=\"800\" height=\"600\" src=\"https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/quay.jpg\" class=\"attachment-large size-large\" alt=\"\" loading=\"lazy\" srcset=\"https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/quay.jpg 800w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/quay-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/quay-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/quay-250x188.jpg 250w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/quay-550x413.jpg 550w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/quay-240x180.jpg 240w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/quay-400x300.jpg 400w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/quay-667x500.jpg 667w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div><\/div><div class='gallery-item gallery-item-position-11 gallery-item-attachment-7690'>\n\t\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/dogs1.jpg' title='dogs1' target='_self'><img width=\"800\" height=\"600\" src=\"https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/dogs1.jpg\" class=\"attachment-large size-large\" alt=\"\" loading=\"lazy\" srcset=\"https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/dogs1.jpg 800w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/dogs1-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/dogs1-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/dogs1-250x188.jpg 250w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/dogs1-550x413.jpg 550w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/dogs1-240x180.jpg 240w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/dogs1-400x300.jpg 400w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/dogs1-667x500.jpg 667w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div><\/div><div class='gallery-item gallery-item-position-12 gallery-item-attachment-7691'>\n\t\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/dogs2.jpg' title='dogs2' target='_self'><img width=\"800\" height=\"600\" src=\"https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/dogs2.jpg\" class=\"attachment-large size-large\" alt=\"\" loading=\"lazy\" srcset=\"https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/dogs2.jpg 800w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/dogs2-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/dogs2-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/dogs2-250x188.jpg 250w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/dogs2-550x413.jpg 550w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/dogs2-240x180.jpg 240w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/dogs2-400x300.jpg 400w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/dogs2-667x500.jpg 667w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div><\/div><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<p>After a while the quay, and the possibility of continuing along the river ends, at a bridge. I\u00a0wish the Dnieper farewell and make my way to the\u00a0Pochaina metro station, some 3km away.<\/p>\n<p>At\u00a0Pochaina I come across a two indoor markets, one selling clothes and the other books.<\/p>\n<p>At the first I fail to find a pair of shorts suitable for the hot weather while at the second I&#8217;m slightly disappointed to find all the books are new, I was hoping for some interesting second hand books.<\/p>\n<p>Nevertheless, I enjoy mooching about the markets for an hour.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_7720\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-7720\" style=\"width: 570px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" class=\"size-full wp-image-7720\" src=\"http:\/\/martinblack.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/book.jpg\" alt=\"Old Ukrainian paperback\" width=\"570\" height=\"428\" srcset=\"https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/book.jpg 570w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/book-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/book-250x188.jpg 250w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/book-550x413.jpg 550w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/book-240x180.jpg 240w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/book-400x300.jpg 400w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 570px) 100vw, 570px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-7720\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">The sort of book I was hoping to find.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>I take the metro back to Maidan, buy a coffee and sit around for a while watching Kyiv pass by before walking to the flat for a nap.<\/p>\n<h2>Dinner<\/h2>\n<p>I meet my friend Anna at Golden Gate, we&#8217;re going to a Crimean restaurant but have an hour to kill before our table is ready.\u00a0 At the nearby <a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/tsypataphouse\/\">Taphouse bar<\/a>, we sit out in a courtyard for a beer.<\/p>\n<p>A gentle late summer evening, a warm breeze, the chatter of people out enjoying themselves, I could be in Barcelona!<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_7724\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-7724\" style=\"width: 600px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" class=\"wp-image-7724 size-full\" src=\"http:\/\/martinblack.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/taphouse.png\" alt=\"taphouse\" width=\"600\" height=\"297\" srcset=\"https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/taphouse.png 600w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/taphouse-300x149.png 300w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/taphouse-250x124.png 250w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/taphouse-550x272.png 550w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/taphouse-364x180.png 364w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-7724\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Taphouse courtyard<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>We finish our drinks and walk through central Kyiv to the\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/www.musafir.com.ua\/\">Musafir restaurant<\/a>.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_7726\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-7726\" style=\"width: 641px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" class=\"wp-image-7726\" src=\"http:\/\/martinblack.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/Musafir.jpg\" alt=\"Musafir\" width=\"641\" height=\"481\" srcset=\"https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/Musafir.jpg 550w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/Musafir-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/Musafir-250x188.jpg 250w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/Musafir-240x180.jpg 240w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/Musafir-400x300.jpg 400w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 641px) 100vw, 641px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-7726\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Musafir<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>The Musafir specialises in Crimean Tatar cuisine. The restaurant was originally based in\u00a0Bakhchysarai, a city in central Crimea, but was forced to close and relocate to the mainland after the Russian invasion of 2014.<\/p>\n<p>Happily the restaurant has proved exceedingly popular with the people of Kyiv and a second branch was opened in 2017.<\/p>\n<p>I enjoy a wonderful portion of plov (pilaf)<span class=\"footnote_referrer\"><a role=\"button\" tabindex=\"0\" onclick=\"footnote_moveToReference_7667_1('footnote_plugin_reference_7667_1_1');\" onkeypress=\"footnote_moveToReference_7667_1('footnote_plugin_reference_7667_1_1');\" ><sup id=\"footnote_plugin_tooltip_7667_1_1\" class=\"footnote_plugin_tooltip_text\">1<\/sup><\/a><span id=\"footnote_plugin_tooltip_text_7667_1_1\" class=\"footnote_tooltip\"><\/span><\/span>, a lightly spiced mix of rice and meat, which was utterly delicious.<\/p>\n<p>The restaurant is beautifully laid out, very good service, live music in the background and great coffee.\u00a0 Highly recommended.<\/p>\n<p>After our meal we stop off at the\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/n.bar.kiev\/\">N::B Cocktails Bar<\/a>\u00a0for drink.<\/p>\n<div class=\"wc-gallery\"><div id='gallery-3' data-gutter-width='5' data-columns='2' class='gallery wc-gallery-captions-onhover gallery-link-file gallery-masonry galleryid-7667 gallery-columns-2 gallery-size-large wc-gallery-bottomspace-default wc-gallery-clear'><div class='gallery-item gallery-item-position-1 gallery-item-attachment-7708'>\n\t\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/musta.jpg' title='musta' target='_self'><img width=\"800\" height=\"600\" src=\"https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/musta.jpg\" class=\"attachment-large size-large\" alt=\"\" loading=\"lazy\" srcset=\"https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/musta.jpg 800w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/musta-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/musta-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/musta-250x188.jpg 250w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/musta-550x413.jpg 550w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/musta-240x180.jpg 240w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/musta-400x300.jpg 400w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/musta-667x500.jpg 667w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<div class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption'>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<p>\n\t\t\t\t\t\tAt the Musafir\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/p>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div><\/div><div class='gallery-item gallery-item-position-2 gallery-item-attachment-7709'>\n\t\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/plov.jpg' title='plov' target='_self'><img width=\"800\" height=\"600\" src=\"https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/plov.jpg\" class=\"attachment-large size-large\" alt=\"\" loading=\"lazy\" srcset=\"https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/plov.jpg 800w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/plov-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/plov-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/plov-250x188.jpg 250w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/plov-550x413.jpg 550w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/plov-240x180.jpg 240w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/plov-400x300.jpg 400w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/plov-667x500.jpg 667w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<div class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption'>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<p>\n\t\t\t\t\t\tPlov!\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/p>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div><\/div><div class='gallery-item gallery-item-position-3 gallery-item-attachment-7707'>\n\t\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/cocktal2.jpg' title='cocktal2' target='_self'><img width=\"600\" height=\"800\" src=\"https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/cocktal2.jpg\" class=\"attachment-large size-large\" alt=\"\" loading=\"lazy\" srcset=\"https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/cocktal2.jpg 600w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/cocktal2-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/cocktal2-300x400.jpg 300w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/cocktal2-250x333.jpg 250w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/cocktal2-550x733.jpg 550w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/cocktal2-135x180.jpg 135w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/cocktal2-375x500.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<div class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption'>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<p>\n\t\t\t\t\t\tN::B Cocktails Bar\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/p>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div><\/div><div class='gallery-item gallery-item-position-4 gallery-item-attachment-7706'>\n\t\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/cocktail.jpg' title='cocktail' target='_self'><img width=\"800\" height=\"600\" src=\"https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/cocktail.jpg\" class=\"attachment-large size-large\" alt=\"\" loading=\"lazy\" srcset=\"https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/cocktail.jpg 800w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/cocktail-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/cocktail-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/cocktail-250x188.jpg 250w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/cocktail-550x413.jpg 550w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/cocktail-240x180.jpg 240w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/cocktail-400x300.jpg 400w, https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/cocktail-667x500.jpg 667w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<div class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption'>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<p>\n\t\t\t\t\t\tAn Old Fashioned for an old fashioned\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/p>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div><\/div><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<h2>Map<\/h2>\n<p><iframe loading=\"lazy\" src=\"https:\/\/www.google.com\/maps\/d\/u\/1\/embed?mid=11V8Zp_IH136Kn2A-Q5pYRye_Wtw1I_07\" width=\"1000\" height=\"600&quot;\"><\/iframe><\/p>\n<div class=\"speaker-mute footnotes_reference_container\"> <div class=\"footnote_container_prepare\"><p><span role=\"button\" tabindex=\"0\" class=\"footnote_reference_container_label pointer\" onclick=\"footnote_expand_collapse_reference_container_7667_1();\">Footnotes and further reading<\/span><span role=\"button\" tabindex=\"0\" class=\"footnote_reference_container_collapse_button\" style=\"display: none;\" onclick=\"footnote_expand_collapse_reference_container_7667_1();\">[<a id=\"footnote_reference_container_collapse_button_7667_1\">+<\/a>]<\/span><\/p><\/div> <div id=\"footnote_references_container_7667_1\" style=\"\"><table class=\"footnotes_table footnote-reference-container\"><caption class=\"accessibility\">Footnotes and further reading<\/caption> <tbody> \r\n\r\n<tr class=\"footnotes_plugin_reference_row\"> <th scope=\"row\" class=\"footnote_plugin_index_combi pointer\"  onclick=\"footnote_moveToAnchor_7667_1('footnote_plugin_tooltip_7667_1_1');\"><a id=\"footnote_plugin_reference_7667_1_1\" class=\"footnote_backlink\"><span class=\"footnote_index_arrow\">&#8679;<\/span>1<\/a><\/th> <td class=\"footnote_plugin_text\">Take a look at this recipe from the <a href=\"http:\/\/mysimferopolhome.blogspot.com\/2008\/02\/how-to-make-plov.html\">My Simferopol Home blog<\/a><\/td><\/tr>\r\n\r\n <\/tbody> <\/table> <\/div><\/div><script type=\"text\/javascript\"> function footnote_expand_reference_container_7667_1() { jQuery('#footnote_references_container_7667_1').show(); jQuery('#footnote_reference_container_collapse_button_7667_1').text('\u2212'); } function footnote_collapse_reference_container_7667_1() { jQuery('#footnote_references_container_7667_1').hide(); jQuery('#footnote_reference_container_collapse_button_7667_1').text('+'); } function footnote_expand_collapse_reference_container_7667_1() { if (jQuery('#footnote_references_container_7667_1').is(':hidden')) { footnote_expand_reference_container_7667_1(); } else { footnote_collapse_reference_container_7667_1(); } } function footnote_moveToReference_7667_1(p_str_TargetID) { footnote_expand_reference_container_7667_1(); var l_obj_Target = jQuery('#' + p_str_TargetID); if (l_obj_Target.length) { jQuery( 'html, body' ).delay( 0 ); jQuery('html, body').animate({ scrollTop: l_obj_Target.offset().top - window.innerHeight * 0.2 }, 380); } } function footnote_moveToAnchor_7667_1(p_str_TargetID) { footnote_expand_reference_container_7667_1(); var l_obj_Target = jQuery('#' + p_str_TargetID); if (l_obj_Target.length) { jQuery( 'html, body' ).delay( 0 ); jQuery('html, body').animate({ scrollTop: l_obj_Target.offset().top - window.innerHeight * 0.2 }, 380); } }<\/script>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>The green, green Dnieper<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":7542,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":[],"categories":[150],"tags":[192,169,193,43],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/7667"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=7667"}],"version-history":[{"count":37,"href":"https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/7667\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":7737,"href":"https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/7667\/revisions\/7737"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/7542"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=7667"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=7667"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/martinblack.com\/oldsite\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=7667"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}