Four days on the Sentier Cathare (Cathar Way) – Day 1: Saint Julia de Bec – Bugarach

I began the hike from the pretty village of Saint Julia-de-Bec. The previous night had seen a fierce thunderstorm and the morning was bright and fresh, perfect weather to start off on a hike.

Just outside St Julia de Bec
Just outside St Julia de Bec

After a mile or so of (very quiet) road walking I joined a track and gained a little height.

Looking westwards towards St Julia de Bec
Looking westwards towards St Julia de Bec
Fields and mountains

I arrived at the village of St Just and drank greedily from the public water fountain. The water was cold and tasted delicious.  I filled my bottles and sat down for a while watching nothing much happen in the sleepy village square.

Drinking fountain at St Just
Drinking fountain at St Just

I passed families of pig boars , the young ones scattering at my approach.

Pig boar families
Pig boar families

At the next village, Bezu, I sat in the inside porch of the church to take cover from the ever increasing heat of the sun.

Le Bezu church
Le Bezu church
Mountain view from Le Bezu
Mountain view from Le Bezu

And then, turning a corner, I saw for the first time the mountain of Bugarach, my destination for the day.

My first view of Bugarach, my camp for the night
The first view of Bugarach, my destination and camp for the night

I found a nice spot to brew up a cuppa tea.

Tea break
Tea break

A couple of hours later I arrived at the village of Bugarach.  I walked on down to the campsite only to find it fully booked for the night.  Ah…never mind, I’d pitch up for a wild camp on the mountainside instead.

Bugarach
Bugarach mountain

Before heading off towards the mountain, I made my way down to the village lake and took a refreshing dip in the cool water.

Swimming lake at Bugarach
Swimming and tea at Bugarach

And made another cuppa tea, obviously.

On Bugarach
On Bugarach

I spent some time looking for a good pitch on Bugarach mountain.

Bugarach sunset
Bugarach sunset

I set up camp, watched the sun set into the west and then fixed dinner: tinned cassoulet, surprisingly tasty as it goes.  The only thing missing was some wine.

Cassoulet for supper
Cassoulet for supper

I went off to sleep only to wake an hour later on hard ground. Yes, my ultra-light sleeping matt had sprung a leak.  I blew it up again and went back to sleep.

This performance was repeated on the hour, every hour, until 6am.  Ah well, at least I managed to get back to sleep almost immediately each time (and I got to see the fantastic starry night sky!).

See day two

 

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